From: The state of the art in anti-aging: plant-based phytochemicals for skin care
Treatment | Stress Source | Model | Duration | Results | Reference |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Astaxanthin 0.5% in sunscreen SPF 50 | UVB:3100 mJ/cm2 | In vivo: 36 male Wistar rats | 5 weeks | • Sunburn cell count was higher in the SPF 50 sunscreen group without astaxanthin (0.47 ± 0.27 cells/hpf) than in the group with 0.5% astaxanthin (0.16 ± 0.18 cells/hpf). • The study showed that adding 0.5% astaxanthin to SPF 50 sunscreen reduced sunburn cell formation and collagen fiber loss in rats exposed to UVB light. | [68] |
Fucoxanthin (0.001% and 0.01%) | UVA: 20 J/cm2 | In vivo: Female, six-week-old, hairless Hos: HR-1 mice | 10 weeks | • Oral supplementation of 0.001% fucoxanthin was enough for its metabolites to accumulate in the skin, preventing UVA-induced damage such as impaired skin barrier function and accelerated wrinkle formation. • Gene expression analysis suggested that fucoxanthin’s antiphotoaging effects may result from its modulation of NMF synthesis, desquamation, and ceramide composition in the epidermis, as well as inhibiting collagen degradation and inflammation in the dermis. | [30] |
Astaxanthin (1 mg/mL) | Phthalic acid | In vivo: HR-1 mice (8-weeks-old, n = 9) | 4 weeks | • ↓ TNF-α, IL-1, IL-6, MDA, H2O2 • ↑ GSH, the expression of HO-1, GPx-1 | [69] |
Lutein, zeaxanthin | UV irradiation (equivalent to 14 mJ/cm2; i.e., 260∼400 nm) was carried out using UV simulators | In vivo: 8 male Swiss albino mice of 8∼12 weeks | 6 weeks | • It was concluded that the proprietary lutein, zeaxanthin, and rosemary formulation, along with the standard drug HA, effectively protects UV-irradiated skin from dehydration. | [29] |
Phytosomes of crocin and lutein from Nyctanthes arbor-tristis and Tagetes patula | - | In vivo: Swiss albino male mice, 6–8 weeks old | 6 weeks | • ↑ GSH level, and ↓ MDA levels in skin tissues of mice • Upregulated expression of elastin and collagen genes, leading to increased skin firmness and elasticity, as evidenced by thicker dermal and epidermal layers | [70] |
Tomato extracts formulation (25 mL/bottle) | - | In vivo: 62 female volunteers | 8 weeks | • 35.63% ↑ in stratum corneum hydration, 29.39% ↓ in TEWL, suggesting enhanced skin hydration • 15.03% ↑ in skin color, 11.41% ↑ in gloss index • 18.59%in the skin gloss and 6.36% in ITA value, leading to a lighter skin tone. • Blood levels of SOD and GPx ↑, while MDA levels ↓ | [71] |
Lutein (20 mg daily) in the form of a liquid food supplement | UVB: 0.114 J/cm2 | In vivo: 30 healthy women | 12 weeks | • The study indicated that dietary lutein supplementation enhances skin photoprotection and supports defense against UVR-induced damage. | [28] |
Astaxanthin–zeaxanthin nanoemulsions radiance serum (0.5 mL) | - | In vivo: 15 women (mean age 42 years) | 4 weeks | • The serum demonstrated significant anti-wrinkle effects, 80–93% reduction in wrinkles over 28 days. | [72] |
Lumenato supplementation: a mix of tomato carotenes (phytoene, phytofluene, zeta-carotene) and natural phytonutrients | - | In vivo: 63 females | 12 weeks | • Improvements were observed in skin elasticity, firmness, brightness, tone, hydration, texture, reduction of dark spots and periorbital dark circles, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. • The overall skin appearance improved in 35.48% of subjects after 4 weeks, increasing to 66.13% after 8 weeks and 62.9% after 12 weeks. | [26] |
E/Z-isomers of lutein and fucoxanthin | UV-A and UV-B | In vitro: Human dermal fibroblasts and B16 mouse melanoma cells | • Z-Isomers showed superior UV-A- and UV-B-blocking abilities than all-E-isomers. • Z-isomer-rich carotenoids showed enhanced lipid peroxidation-scavenging activity. • Both isomers exhibited strong anti-elastase and anti-tyrosinase activities. | [73] | |
E/Z-Isomers of lycopene and β-carotene | UV-A and UV-B | In vitro: Human dermal fibroblasts and B16 mouse melanoma cells | • The Z-isomers exhibited superior UV-light-shielding abilities compared to the all-E-isomers. • The Z-isomers demonstrated greater skin anti-aging and whitening activities than the all-E-isomers. | [25] | |
Lycopene-loaded niosomes | UV-B: 10 mJ/cm2 | In vitro: Human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and B16F10 melanoma cells. | 24 h | • Demonstrated high effectiveness in protecting against UVB radiation. • Showed strong potential in inhibiting melanogenesis. | [27] |